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If any quirks happen during a Win installation (or that of any OS basically), I can only recommend to reinstal that OS right away.
This is in no way restricted to an nlited or BASE'd installation CD but also to the original installation medium.
Windows installs are very sensitive towards RAM timings, voltage and OC'ing (the latter two also applying to the CPU) so you should revert back to BIOS defaults (maybe not even using the "performance" or "optimized" settings) for the installation - all changes can be undone once it has been successfully installed.

As you tested the DVD (and not the ISO) in VPC already, I think we can outrule a bad burn.

Also make sure to disable any "virus protection" in the BIOS, that will ususally prevent anything from writing (properly) to the MBR which could result in such strange behaviour.

Gnarf, tried to delete my apparent double-post, now bot hare gone, so here it is again for refrerence...

Not necessarily.
Heed what the other two posters told you, though.

That and to really profit from it (while-run checks) you'd have to install some software on your OS that will monitor the HDD whenever it runs.

No.
With these tests, it is imparative you only use the manufacturer's tools and not those of a different one (which can suck if you man. only offers a very minimal or bad tool I'm actually buying HDDs sort of based on how well the tools provided are...).
The problem is that SMART values are saved in hex code ranging from 0x00 to 0xFF, or 0 to 255 in decade numbers.
The temperature hence isn't give in a "real" value (say so and so many °C/°F) but rather this code.
In your case, it may just happen to be of the value of 100.
This does NOT translate to 100°C or 100°F (the latter being the more probable, though).
The tool has to look it up in a chart how much represents what temperature.
If it's not the manufacturer's tool, how will it know this? It doesn't.

Using Segate's tool to check a system with also an IBM inside the tool reported a temp. of 255°C for me once (SMART readout happens for all drives so I couldn't cancel that or such).
Hilarious but absolutely impossible considering the other drive's max temp was some 40°C and current at ~30°C...

The problem is, even with the manufacturer's tool, just because it passed doesn't necessarily mean it's ok.
However, should it not pass, it's almost 100% sure it has some defect.

How many test loops did you run with Fujitsu's tool?
I'd recommend at least 10, maybe even leave it on overnight.
Of course backup all data before running any such tests, more so on stress testing.
The point is to actually provoke some error message.
Most manufacturers will require you to provide such an error code before you can send the drive in (assuming you still have warranty left).
Even if not it's better to verify the drive will not break down on heavy use NOW rather than having it break down some months down the road when you do not expect it.
HDDs are comparatively cheap but a data loss is hard to pay!

Err, pardon me but what do you mean by "being correct"?
If you are worried about having the latest drivers, if I understand Jaak correctly, there has nothing been updated in that regard.
Are there actually devices missing (yellow !) in your device manager or what exactly is the real problem?

Only for US residents, huh?

I'm wondering how this driver will behave regarding different channels allowed or forbidden by local law.
AFAIK, the US uses less channels than Europe (only up to 11 compared to 13).
In that case, we'd be better off using the non-US restricted driver for max. bandwidth throughput.

...unless of course your main priority is complying with US laws...

And also your system specs.
We'd like to know how much memory you sport actually.
Are you definately meeting 2k's/2k3's (which one is it? Happens on both?) requirements?

The mobo only does this if the model supports this functionality.
I wouldn't take this for granted in every case; especially cheaper models will either have this implemented improperly or lack it completely.

In any case, your fans will need at least three wires (some models have four) for this to work, otherwise, the current RPM cannot be reported to the mobo.
It may still control the speed, however, then you do not get any readout on the RPMs and hence cannot set a minimum or maximum value which means the mobo could either switch off a fan completely (bad idea in some cases) or make them spin too fast (could become quite noisy).

In my experience, it is best to use the BIOS for such setups and only rely on a software solution if not possible through the first.
Software readouts can be off quite a lot (esp. reporting CPU/GPU temp) and consequently use improper RPM "tweaks".

Another possibility is to use temp-controlled fans, that is fans which have their own temp sensor on-board and can adjust their RPMs by themselves.
These do not require the mobo to adjust the fan voltage or use PWM to throttle the RPMs - in fact it is not recommended to use them while the BIOS fan control is activated as it may work against each other (mobo throttling using PWM, fan trying to adjust by increasing the drawn power) with the result that the RPMs stay the same.
It could even cause damage to the mobo in rare cases, I guess (if the fan is pulling more power from the fan connector than allowed).

Settle for one method first, then buy the HW accordingly!

Done.

Either that, or introduce another user choice in the BASE à la ATi CP/CCC.
I'm not sure whether you could use both Intel and Sigmatel CP at the same time (unlike the CP/CCC situation).
So far, I have always installed the Intel one on appropriate mobos since the board itself was from Intel so why not use their CP, right?

As for the front panel, I'm not even sure how to differeciate between the two...
Isn't that just a break-out box for the connector found on the mobo anyway?
So, one would assume if the on-board SC was HDA, so would be the FP somehow...

Intel should certainly have some sort of guide on how to tell, I for one definately cannot by the outward looks of it.

Yes, you do need that adapter, but it isn't that "special" (it's a normed one, nothing proprietary or anything).
The protocols are the same for an ATA drive so the adapter only converts the electrical signals and does not include a logical unit.
As for SATA, I may be wrong, but I believe desktop and notebook systems (ie 3.5" and 2.5" drives) actually use the same connector because that one is already pretty slim as opposed to the "big ass" IDE connector.

In any case, when working a lot woth notebooks, having such an apadter ready is pretty convenient, IMO.
It doesn't cost much either, so it's not wasted money

As to the second point, of course it does not or rather should not matter on which system you do the testing.
As long as direct HW access is granted (which the USB or whatever bridge chip of the external case will prevent), those low-level scans will work.

While recommended to use a standard IDE controller, most scan tools nowadays support various RAID or SATA controllers, too (just like the DPMS ), so you can even use one of these.
Also, it should not matter, but it's better to do this is hooking up the drive as a sole device on the IDE channel (so as a master without a slave).
With SATA, this limitation is obviously void.

Good luck in testing and here's hoping it will turn out well for you!

Quite possible.
Urgent suggestion:
* Do not use the HDD for the time being!
* Backup all important data if you have not already (obviously, you will have to use the HDD for this...).
* Download http://ultimatebootcd.com/download.html
* Burn ISO to CD
* Remove the HDD from its case (since it's obviously an external one), connect it to an internat port (ATA/SATA)
* Boot from the new CD and select HDD scan utils.
* Scan (extensively) the HDD using the manufacturer's tool (it's important not to use the tool of a different manuf.)

While plausible, if this is the case, it is likely the chip in question is running too hot, which would also mean the case itself is improperly cooled, which in turn could mean the HDD itself is (also) damaged.

If the above scan does not turn up anything, then it could indeed be the bridge chip of the case.

Yeah, do as Jaak said.
This is drivers-only, for any add-ons packs, either use nLite along with an add-on maker or some pre-assembled pack.

While .NET certainly is a requirement for ATi's CCC to work, the size of it would exceed the DriverPack Graphics A, which looks a bit rediculous, IMO.
Also, the version of DX9 that comes with XP may not be up-to-date anymore, but I think all drivers still work with it (whether or not a specific programme works is a different question, but that is none of our buisness so to speak).
Again, it is pretty huge in size, plus there are numerous already existing DX add-on packs available.

EDIT:
Nice auto-double posts going on here.
If I delete one, both are gone, if I repost, both re-appear.
Oh well...
*sigh*