If you actually rebuilt it, why don't you just upload it and replace it yourself? wink

That would certainly be the easiest and fasted option as you seem to have noticed it first.


Besides, I always trust in your own good measurement and QA.
I do not check each release before I edit in the links.
While I do use all of them, it may take a while I actually notice such things (if at all) so I can only urge every contributer to pay as much attention to a proper release as possible and maybe even test it if you have the proper HW.
Thanks!

chud wrote:

more info in the support file in the 7z

I guessed that, but ususally it's nice to see beforehand if anything important (for one's own HW) has changed smile

678

(1 replies, posted in Hardware)

So, how did that happen?
Have you actually used the DriverPacks?
If so, all of them?
Did the installation work otherwise?

And, most importanly, what are you trying to achieve now (ie the real point of your post)?
Because I'm really not sure about that one...

JakeLD wrote:

Can someone update the 1st post with this release ?

If you'd post this in the sticky, it would be easier for me to keep track of what needs to be edited in that first post.
While I ususally do not endorse cross posting, in this case it's perfectly valid to open a seperate thread for the release (and further discussion etc.) as well as leaving a simple note in the sticky smile

chud wrote:

tbh, if the full YYYY-MM-DD was used with hyphens, it would probably be clearer it related to a date at least..]

Yeah, probabaly.
I kept the periods because of the official packs solely.

...and although bit is compleltey offtopic,

Heh, I do feel we wouldn't be so bad off with an off-topic subforum.
While there certainly isn't too much need for it, it wouldn't hurt either, I guess.
Also, there aren't that many folks around which could making moderating such a forum hard work (I know what I'm talking about with moderating one of these at around 15,000 members...).
May have a chat with Bâshrat the Sneaky about it when the time is right (new site maybe).

Imperial measures advantage is their scaling in relation to real life, that metric doesn't have (I use both btw.) this is the best way to explain.
car tyre 30psi = 2.07bar
mountbike is 50 psi = 3.45bar
racing bike 120psi = 8.27 bar
the point being its easy to compare numbers on a scale of say 1 to 100 when the units fit the task. Metric units for things like trye pressures are useless, either in bar or N/m^2

I have to disagree with that.
The scaling is exactly the same, simply because 1 PSI ^= 0,069 bar.
This relation is absolutely linear with only one conversion factor.
If you take a closer look, 120 PSI is four times 30 PSI, while 8.27 bar is also four times 2.07 bar.
It may just not "stick out" that much because every second grader could tell you four times three is 12. And multiplying that by ten isn't magic, either.
HOWEVER, multiplying two by four and getting eight ain't so hard, either, same for seven times four equalling 27...
The only thing that's different is the period, but if you multiply by 100, it's gone, too.

Also, you're "cheating" a little.
You make the PSI values look integer while bar is "floating point".
This is merely because the company for the tyre is US-based and they used a value that is an integer to make it easier for the customer.
Guess what, over here, car tyres are supposed to be a straight 2 bar (unless you carry extra load, then it's 2.3 bar, at least for my car).
It doesn't really matter if there's some 10% more or less, most gauges probabaly aren't as accurate anyway (plus, temperature and current car load mean different pressure, too!).

What you did prove, though, is that the system you are used to is the easier one - there's no denying in that for sure! smile

If I went to measure my car tyre pressure and found it was 1.93 bar , I really wouldn't know if that was about right or too flat becuase the difference in the two numbers is minimal. However if it was 25 psi I could easily see it was 5 out and what fraction that was of what it should be.

See, I know my tyres have to be 2 bar, that is easy enough for me to remember.
(and should I forget it, the values are on the inside of the filler cap wink).
Using a barometre to measure the tyre pressure, I get two scales (on the one I'm using):
One for bar and one for PSI.
While the difference from 2 bar to 1.93 bar may seem minimal, on the barometre, it is the same "distance" for the needle as it was from 25 PSI to 20 PSI. Hence, it does not require a better eye or a more precise measuring instrument. It's the same, just different figures (and colours for the scaling wink).

I grew up using entirely metric measures yet now always use feet and inches for measuring 90% things because they fit the day to day sizes of things more sensibly.

That certainly depends, once again.
Remember that famous FMJ quote of "Four inches, Pvt. Pyle, four inches!" (for the distance of his weapon to his chest)?
Well, that would be a good 10cm in the metric system.
Maybe he would have less troubles remembering that? tongue

Also, when people guesstimate distances, they never are accurate.
You use whatever is closest to an integer figure of your measurement system.
If I was to give the distance from my home to the train station, I would probabaly say about 1 km.
In reality, it's more like 1.2 km.
Now, you'd probabaly call that almost a mile.
Neither comes really close, but it's not important to be more precise in these things.

Of course, it's easier to say two feet instead of 0.6 m; you'd make that 0.5 m more likely.
If you want precission, you'd say it in mm anyway, and that is a lot more precise than inches wink

Unless you have used both systems you perhaps cannot understand this though smile [ I tried explaining it to my gf once who only ever used metric and she couldn't 'get it'.]

Well, probabaly, but I wager to guess that I know more about the Imperial System than the average German or continental European.
Also, I am somewhat interested in "ancient" measurement systems (Inch and feet were both known in Germany for a very long time through the Middle Ages up to the 19th centruy when Napoléon made several reforms).
In fact, pound is still being used every day, although, over here it is an exact 500 g or 0.5 kg so it's pretty easy to do that conversion).

As I said before, it really comes down to what you are used to and what is commonly used in your environment (funnily, I strangely had a harder time readopting to the right-lane system after having spend some time in the UK than I had adopting to the left-lane one... wink).


As a final note, the one perfect reason to use YYYY-MM-DD is that whenever you use MM-DD or DD-MM on the internet I spend at least half a minute trying to find out which one is meant if both figures are >= 12.
Very annoying!
As there is no YYYY-DD-MM, this system simply avoids any confusion whatsoever (that is to mean there's only one way to interpret this, it may still confuse you if you do not know the scheme, of course).

chud wrote:

new modem pack
00D92392A710DDF02674C275AEBDE7A0
DP_Modem_wnt5_x86-32_70821.7z

OP updated.

Any changes? wink

TigerC10 wrote:

I don't know, they change pretty frequently...  That means that the .torrent files would be floating around outdated......

hmm

So?
Old websites are still floating around on archive.org, does that mean the web is outdated pretty quickly?

Firstly, we get enough requests from folks that want a specific older version of one DP because that worked better for them.
While this is only an interim solution because the actualy goal should be tracking down and eliminating the problem in the current pack, the fact that these old packs are not available at all is probabaly not the best idea overall.

Secondly, old DriverPacks would only "float around" as long as omebody is still "hosting" or offering the file.
No sources on the P2P network, no old files available.
I would assume that the official host would only keep the most recent versions along with the .TORRENT files that reference only these files.
No .TORRENT to reference the file, no way to obtain the file (or has Torrent become searchable as of late?).
"Problem" (I don't see it as such) solved.

Thirdly, and I know this is kind of farfetched imagination, if the BASE was to become Torrent-able (it can automatically get the .TORRENT file, connect to the network and DL the required files to replace the user's current outdated ones), any user would only get the newest files automatically by this distribution system.
If he wanted to obtain older ones, that would hence only work manually - more or less the same it does now (post a request on the forum and hope for someone to still have the file).


Oh, and fourthly, I favour the emule/edonkey P2P network, but that's just personal preference I guess smile tongue

683

(19 replies, posted in Feature Requests)

chud wrote:

AJ, yes we are, but if Helmi could just try it , it would solve a big issue as to relevance of SFC / sfc_os.dll nd put the issue to rest - and then I can write up my vmware/sysprep/universal image thing

Sorry was kind of buys the last days and really did not get around to testing anything.

I'll see if I can give this a try on my testing system today or tomorrow, but I need to find a new monitor for that thing first (old one has a slack joint on the switch - which is really one of these old-fashioned proper switches, not the soft buttons the use nowadays).
I could try fixing the joint, however, that requires the removal of the whole CRT thanks to the ingenious case design...

This has been brought up several times already.
As it stands, the BASE is (or should be) using whatever proxy you set in the IE options.

AJenbo wrote:

would that not requre me to re install windows and make a new install disk?

Yes, that's the whole point of the DriverPacks.

If you currently have a running config that you want to preserve ("never change a running system!"), I advise you to create an image of the HDD using one of the numerous programmes for the task (Norton Ghost or Acronis TrueImage being two good ones of them) that you store away on a DVD or a HDD not adjected to this system, then wipe, reinstall with the newly slipstreamed XPCD containing the newer drivers and see how that works out.

If it doesn't the image you created is quickly restored and so is your old setup.

686

(2 replies, posted in DriverPack Graphics)

I think he wants to know how to integrate/have integrated this driver into his disc.
I'm not sure whether it is actually missing in the packs or just didn't work for him...

Suffice to say, the rest of 2pac_77's posts weren't any less confusing... hmm

That took them a while to get these out, I hope they are good! smile

Not using any HW that is affected by this but I can imagine a lot of folks will be happy about it.

You can find the link to the 3rd party DriverPack tutorial in my sig.

You can also just post a [REQ] thread about the missing driver so a Team Member can add it to the official pack, which in turn would profit everyone from the driver, not just you wink

Here's some basic tips:

Firstly, to actually find out what HW you have in the box, use HWID, which you can find in my sig.

Secondly, do use RW media for all this stuff!
That way, if the burning did not turn out properly, you can easily erase the medium and reuse (up to 1,000 times or so).
It does save you lots of money in the end and also helps the environment smile

Thirdly, if you have no experience in creating a bootable ISO (it definately is more complicated that just burning your vacation photos on a disc!) I can only urge you to use nLite for the task.
You do not have to use any other options besides the ISO creation (but the rest is pretty useful, too, IMO).
You can then use nLiteto burn this ISO on a disc, or use Nero for the task, if you prefer.
Using Nero you can actually save about 12MB of space (check the options for the short leadout).

And fourthly, but not least, do read the tutorials which you can also find in my sig.

All that combined should get you quite a leap forward I venture to guess!

chud wrote:

The last number is the date in a modified version of the international date format, (which is YYYY-MM-DD) - which makes it evenly confusing for everyone as I have never seen it used anywhere ever except here smile

Well, I think I did everything to explain the reason behind this scheme (which, sake for the DD, is also used on the official packs, so at the end of the day it should be less confusing...).
It's really not my fault if the rest of the (perceived, I have seen it being used a lot previously, mostly by folks who apparently think in the same way I do tongue) world can't stick to ISO norms (which are valid internationally)...
big_smile

Now, I don't know where you guys are from, but I guess those having the most problems with come from the anglo-american countries (UK and USA).
And that's probabaly due to the fact that you completely messed up your date format for reasons totally beyond me wink
Which may also be explained by the fact that you still stick to Imperial measurements in other cases (lenght, temperature, volume, weight, just to name a few) whereas the rest of the world once again has adopted the Système International, which, in turn, is now also part of the ISO norm...

Alright, if you aren't from the aforementioned countries, then please disregard the above.
But then I can even less explain your problems with the scheme.


Anyway, this is getting way too lenghty alread.
The point is, we need to agree on and stick to an unified naming scheme which also represents the date of the last change in a way it can be easily referenced by potential contributors to these packs.
If anyone has an idea how to do this even better than with the YYMMDD format, then for God's sake please share it.
I cannot think of a better one myself, but then again I find it anything but confusing wink
I am open for suggestions that actually improve the current situation smile

691

(1 replies, posted in 3rd Party DriverPacks)

HUH????

cwbshaw wrote:

Could it be that the fact that the card is dual-head is the cause?

Don't think so, but I have yet to test on mine...
Never was a problem in the past but then you said it just surfaced now.

On a somewhat unrelated item, I noticed someone submitting a test report for a non-ATI card using the new Graphics driverpacks.....I had thought that you really only needed tests on ATI cards.....I do have other non-ATI cards I can test.....would it be helpful to submit reports on these?

We're glad about any hardware you can test the packs on!
In this case, ATi was specifically requested because there were some serious problems reported.

As for DriverPack Graphics A, the only other HW to test on would be nVidia.

You can, however, test all the other DriverPacks on your hardeware, too, if you don't mind!

And last but not least, if you are really interest in this, I'm sure there are still open potitions on the official Testers group wink
That way you will get access to ALL test versions, not just the few we publically posted.
Just drop Bâshrat the Sneaky a note and he'll get you in wink

LeveL wrote:

The other solution is to extract them with Driver Genius, but that does not give me all the files that are in Bashrats pack, nowhere near as many files, so I guess all Driver Genius is finding is the drivers themselves and not the control panel with the system tray icon?

That's true, programmes such as DG only collect the files referenced in the *.INF and that does excatly not include any control panels.
This is also the reason for the existance of the Finisher, to install these remaining files that otherwise would not get executed.
The driver will still work, regardless, however, you will lose the option to make driver setting changes with the GUI (you could always edit the registry by yourself, if you like doing that wink).

Fancy putting in a bunch of files you cannot even extract, poor show nVidia, poor show.

Same for ATi for that matter, btw (so you don't feel too bad now wink).

The "problem" is that 7-Zip somehow cannot handle specific types of CABs - I have no idea why.
It's the same with the often-found "data1.CAB" files in many installers - it cannot open/extract these, however, using expand on them works.

That said, it would still be easier if the two big companies just packed their driver files like all the other HW makers...

The latest drivers from Acer will probabaly be about half a year old if not more.

As a quick interim fix, you could try disabling (or enabling if it already is...) ATi's VPU Recover as found in the CCC.
Also, this could be due to the automatic clock speed adaption on mobile systems. You may want to disable that for a test, too (which will mean the system will draw more power when idle because the GPU does not clock down, though).

morland wrote:

Helmi: From your reply I infer that downloading and installing the DriverPack will solve everything???? I am not sure what the DriverPack is but I assume the URL's posted by TigerC10 will lead me straight to where I can download the DriverPack from?  Can you kindly confirm my assumption and guide me if I have mis-understood your reply.

Hey, if you haven't noticed it already, you're posting on the DriverPacks official forum!
I am wondering a bit how you got here if you haven't heared about the DriverPacks itself before wink

If you scroll to the very top, the link on the very left will take you to the DriverPacks many page, you can DL the required packages from there!

morland wrote:

P.S
Am about to go through Jaak's tutorial but one quick question: Do I have to download all of the 11 DriversPack or ???   I understand that I will certainly be needing the DriverPacks BASE to slipstream them.

Yes, you do need the BASE no matter what.
You can then either DL and use all DriverPacks or just pick those that you want/need.
They are categorized by general HW classes.
In your case, you will need the DPMS and you will also need to enable the option for Text Mode drivers (thet tut should cover that, too).
According to your first post, you will also want the DriverPack Sound A as well as the 3rd party DriverPack Modem (you will find that one not on the main page but in the 3rd party DriverPack subforum on this board! Just scroll down a little on the index page).

If you do not have to worry about space because you opwn a DVD burner, I suggest DLing all the packs (including 3rd party DriverPack) so you get as much HW covered as possible.
There's no downside in using them all apart from having to DL more and needing more space on the disc (ok, installation will take longer, but it would probabaly take even longer if you have to manually install all those drivers wink).

That's fine then.

Please remember to make use of the subscribtion feature to not lose track of threads important to you!

697

(19 replies, posted in Feature Requests)

chud wrote:

it was a huge gif to begin with and so didnt rescale down in PS,so had to convert it, then resize, then save out, but by then its smaller as a jpg
anyhow i just recropped it, im sorry its not perfect! just illustrating some issue with the signing policy disabler.

Nah, that's fine, I was just giving you (or anyone for that matter) a general tip for the next time wink

offset 0x0140, changes E2 E0 to 55 5B (this may be just the CRC correction?)

Could be.
I'm always using ModifyPE to have my modified files pass the installation CRC test.
You could give this a chance.

OR you could just use nLite as I do and not having to worry about it at all tongue

Helmi: a)is yours changed in that way?

I'll have to look and see.
Firstly, getting a Hex editor...

b) any chance u can replace your file with the original and see if it makes any difference?
Then at elast we can put this issue to bed as having any relevance to peoples problems?

You mean on the current installation?
Or replace on the source and reinstall?

AJenbo wrote:

DriverPack SmartCard Readers: 7.02 gives me 404

the correct link is http://3rdpartydriverpacks.thesneaky.co … -32_702.7z

Yes, you are correct.
Sorry about that.
The "problem" is, I am taking the links directly from the FTP which has a different (longer) file structure than on the HTTP server.
I simply missed to cut the additional part out...

chud wrote:

Helmi:

Sorry I didn't know that was the date, seems hard to read to me, being back to front - the tutorial just says to name them;
DP_myDriverPacksNameWithoutSpaces_wnt5_x86-32_myVersionSystem.7z

Oh, ok.
I haven't had a look at that for some time and I didn't write it myself...
We had that discussion a while ago and basically setttled on the date version system because a) it goes along with the official packs and b) is probably the best way to do this (if you have an ingeniously better idea, feel free to share wink).

As for the date being hard to read, that'S just because you aren't used to it.
The YYYY-MM-DD format is actually an ISO norm.
It is better than the DD-MM-YYYY format and indefinately better than the totally obscure and illogical US system of MM-DD-YYYY...
The reason for this is simple, you can sort by the file name.
As the year comes first, it will be sorted by that first, then by month, then by day.
Therefore, you can easily see which one is the newest and which the oldest.
This cannot be done in any of the other two systems!

I had just incremeted with next logical looking number, maybe why people just end up putting 'mod' after things they changed as they don't know?

Yeah, maybe.
I thought it was kind of self-explanatory, but I guess it isn't quite hmm

I will update the tutorial accordingly, then.

I just put all the other info into a post but once again this board stopped working yet again for a few mins so it was all lost when I hit submit (happens about 30% of the time)

I know, I know...
Nothing I could do about that (Bâshrat the Sneaky to the rescue!).
The workaround is as simple as effective:
[CTRL]+[A], [CTRL]+[C].
If it doesn't work, hit back on your browser and press [CTRL]+[V]... wink

Iv'e renamed the Touchscreen to end with an 8, MD5 stays same - folder is \TS\

First post updated with the info, thanks for supplying! smile

Up to Bâshrat the Sneaky to add any sub-forum categories.

I can't perform any administrative tasks in here (AFAIK...).

morland wrote:

I hope I am not posting this request in the wrong forum?

We'll see.
If so, I can easily move this around, so fear not smile

I bought a Sony VAIO VGN-FZ104E Laptop which came with Vista. I hate Vista and so I (with great difficulty and by spending extra $150) got XP installed.

That sounds like a scam to me.
AFAIK, Microsoft offers customers a downgrade from Vista to XP (obviously losing the Vista licence in the process but who cares...), for free!
You could also have tried getting a model with XP instead of Vista (they still exist, due to large demand), in case there is one with the same HW...

The problem now ofcourse is finding the drivers. So far the USB ports are working but no sound, the AV Mode button is not working, can't find the driver for the modem, and so on....

USB is supported "out-of-the-box" if you're using XP SP2.
Sound probably needs the HDA hotfix (KB888111) installed to work.
The DriverPacks will install this hotfix if it is not present.

I will be really very grateful if someone can help me find the drivers for my Laptop.

Have you already tried the DriverPacks?

Ususally it goes like this:
You slipstream them into your source using the BASE, then you install with that modified source and see what device drivers are missing, if any.
Then you report that here, along with the logfiles and your HWIDs, so we can see what's up.

Also, how can I make my XP CD recognize the SATA drive (when I boot with the XP CD).

The DriverPacks will do this.
You need to use the DPMS with Text Mode enabled.

This is where that guy charged me $150 but though I don;t know the details, but he certainly did not install any SATA drivers because when I try to boot with Norton Ghost or Acronis boot disk, they too do not find the SATA harddisk.

If you current OS does work (I presume XP got installed on the machine now? Wonder what type of guy that is who sells a preinstalled OS but doesn't bother to include proper drivers... --> sounds even more like scam), then the drivers must have been installed, else it wouldn't boot up...
Obviously, any bootable media must include the drivers themselves in order to find and access your HDDs.
Those boot discs will NOT use the drivers from the OS on your HDD to work.
If you come to think of it, how whould that work? If it cannot see/access the HDD due to lack of drivers, how whould the boot app "extract" them from there?
Same as leaving your keys in the car and slamming the door shut --> no way to obtain keys... wink


Once again, can someone please help.

Many many advance thanks.

You're more than welcome to try out the DriverPacks, if you haven't already.
In theory, that should solve most if not all of your current problems big_smile