[SLVD]Intel Extreme Graphics 855 GM on Dell inspiron 1150 -- epic fail (Page 1 of 2)

...would that be "ialmdd5.dll" &
   {DriverVer=07/19/2005, 6.14.10.4363} http://downloads.dell.com/video/R105909.EXE ?
Note:  DriverPacks_B_1107\D\G\I5  {DriverVer=02/07/2006,6.14.10.4497}

My first thought is that your optical drive &/or disc may be causing issues.  Many pre-2005 drives (esp. Matsushita-Panasonic) are notorious for poor-compatibility with newer media.  There may be a firmware for that.  Beware that improperly applied firmware can "BRICK" the drive. More often than not, the laser needs light cleaning with a cotton-swab & IsoPropyl Alcohol (99%); put a few drops in the cap & lightly wet the swab; lightly twirl on the lens like you are making fire.  Turn the swab upside-down, breath heavily on the laser & twirl some more.  Beware that improper cleaning can BRICK your laser, so to speak.  If your machine can boot from USB, why not move your media onto a USB-stick or use a USB portable DVD drive?

Bad capacitors can cause unusual results whilst attempting an install.  Can it run a linux live CD (or memtest & vidtest successfully for that matter)?  Google "Capacitor Plague".  Ignore this somewhat if you have a notebook.  I mean somewhat because it's the power-adapters that can have the plague.  No user-serviceable parts.  I'm not a user, BTW. 
Cleanliness is King with electronics.  "Tin-plague" is another factor if it was regularly stored at temperatures of 15C (59F) or less.  "Tin-Whiskers" can bridge circuits that are connected with Lead-Free solder.  Tin from the casing itself can "plague-off" & bridge circuitry.   I use compressed-air & a soft-bristle nylon brush to clean the boards.  If you have a desktop, the health of the Power-Supply is at issue.  Cleaning &/or servicing these involves knowing four things:  1)  If you don't implicitly know what you are doing, don't even start pulling it apart.  2) Never plug in the AC cord to the back of the P/S while the casing is open.  3)  Always discharge the power-supply before dismantling it. (hold the power-button down for at least 2 minutes with AC cord removed - beware this may reset your BIOS settings.)   4)  Assume that the main caps still hold a residual charge - discharge directly with an electrically-insulated screwdriver or preferably a proper capacitor-discharge tool.

Dead or dying BIOS Batteries can have weird consequences.

Another possibility is that you are attempting to link to an earlier driver possibly due to an out-dated BIOS (usually includes VideoBIOS).  If you have experience updating BIOS's (or is that BIOSae?) you may want to check if an update would apply (A07 possibly, depending upon your service tag). 
Beware that improperly-applied BIOS updates can BRICK your system.
(even if so directed by OEM - rarely, it happens)

BTW:  what has the Dell Diagnostics CD to say for health of the system?

I commend you for (hopefully) having the patience to work with such vintage hardware.  You may need loads of it.
Hopefully you have a goodly-amount of RAM to work with. 

PS:  what do you think of performance of newer WiFi driver in DP_WLAN_1202 ?

Last edited by TechDud (2012-05-27 21:37:54)

Forum Rules & Guidelines   HWID's tool   Unknown Devices (Win7-max) LatencyMon - NT6.x
MemTest86+    Video Memory Stress Test    D-P-C Driver Latency Tester (Win7-max)

and for what it's worth I'm not a user either.. If I have a bad laptop GPU, I can reflow it, or just lift it from the board and fix the problem ;-P

just reading a pc mag about issue, the feedback was if its an 1150 (or many other models) "they have a well known design fault"

I agree. 
My confusion concerning whether the Inspiron 1150 was a desktop or laptop came from the image dell displays at one point for that model.

from:  ../inspiron_notebooks/laptop-inspiron-1150-overhead-esupport-149.jpg

Do they elaborate upon that design flaw in your pc mag botus?

I would assume that it wouldn't be the DC jack, as likely zerohimself would have noticed.  I tend to reason that a 'design-flaw' may have revolved around the lack of an updated Video BIOS to allow '4497 to work.  I refer to the release date of what may be the most up-to-date official BIOS for that model; it coincides somewhat with the older driver posted.
(reference:  http://downloads.dell.com/bios/1150_A07.TXT)
Ergo, the latest driver is significantly newer that the latest BIOS.  I have previously run into a similar issue on an i865G board, and prevailed with an updated BIOS of my own manipulation (i noted no discernible performance difference though).

I apologize for the 'shotgun' approach; i should have elaborated that what i listed were merely potential sources of error hoping to be effective as a 'first-responder'.  I will endeavor to simplify my approach to be more efficient in the future.

I've been thus-far stymied in my quest for a second [SLVD] topic!

Last edited by TechDud (2012-05-28 07:44:51)

Forum Rules & Guidelines   HWID's tool   Unknown Devices (Win7-max) LatencyMon - NT6.x
MemTest86+    Video Memory Stress Test    D-P-C Driver Latency Tester (Win7-max)

the inverter may (or may not) be failing due to a damaged or dying CCFL bulb.  A reddish tint is a good indicator (although you probably already know this).  Another panel may work well (15" 1024x768 or potentially 1280x1024).
The 30-pin connection to the panel is a VESA standard, yet i generally reference LCD datasheets to double-check pinouts & voltage, etc (I can do this for you if needed - just post the panel model #'s & mfg. name).  I also have a copy of the A1277 Dell Diagnostics CD if it helps.  http://ftp.dell.com/diags/cdd_1277.iso
From DDUP1277.exe:

  Dell Inspiron 1150 Service Manual --> http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/s … ns1150/sm/

Wikipedia also says that overheating is a major caveat of this product.  Considering the desktop-style CPU,  the integrated heat-spreaders (and heat sinks) are rarely perfectly flat.  They are "within tolerance".  I also noted with s478 Prescott mobile CPU's with HyperThreading are much more efficient with HT disabled.  I dropped 15 degrees Celsius on a Toshiba Satellite A70 just by turning it off (D.P.C. latency also dramatically improved).  Your experience may vary.  This is where a cheap plugin power meter is helpful.  I also note that every 10 degree Celsius drop in temperature doubles the lifespan of ordinary electrolytic capacitors; the effect is more pronounced with Solid Polymer Electrolytics.  Tantalum capacitors can experience explosive failure modes (very rare).

The nice thing about restoring "vintage" equipment is that the principles of restoration can apply to even the newest of hardware. 

The lion's share of my equipment is similarly restored, and typically lasts a minimum of 3 years of full-time usage.  That period starts long after any OEM warranty had expired.  This includes "wall-warts" (especially those with ID chips).  "Wall-warts" can only be properly tested under load.

I consider Henry Ford, and his "production engineering" as my inspiration (his wife had AFIK the first electric car in Detroit).  For it is often the needs of production engineering that are the root of failure.  Think of what is involved in the restoration of the drivetrain & safety systems in an automobile, apart from "cosmetics".

Tomorrow i get to tackle a Sony KDS-60A2020 1080p projection TV with the "green" tint issue!

Last edited by TechDud (2012-05-28 17:19:13)

Forum Rules & Guidelines   HWID's tool   Unknown Devices (Win7-max) LatencyMon - NT6.x
MemTest86+    Video Memory Stress Test    D-P-C Driver Latency Tester (Win7-max)

I love this forum already ;-P

So, can a failing CCFL cause the inverters to fail? is this a permanent issue, or will the inverters work properly if I plug them into a good CCFL? I have 3 of these dell *proprietary* inverters, and they all hum really loud, and cut out after about 3 seconds. the last one worked in the dell for about 12 hours, now it just cuts out after 3 seconds, and I am about to order a new one.. I don't want to put it in if the CCFL is just going to cause it to burn out.

I have noticed that for the most part, all of my LCD panels are interchangable, but I need one that fits this machine, I think I got 2 toshiba tecra M2's I could scavage they look like they might be the right size..

This whole "is it the CCFL or is it the inverter" issue is driving me nuts... this is not the first one that I am having this issue with

When you are able, could you check to see what version is in your inspiron?  Here's a reference in a BIOS update to the Inspiron 700m Series with an i855g chipset

I found the latest Video BIOS directly from intel.  No batteries included; what is included is a battery of VidBIOS modules.

Intel seems to recommend {DriverVer=11/03/2005, 6.14.10.4421} for that chipset, with that VidBIOS.

  here --> http://downloadmirror.intel.com/9630/a0 … xp1418.zip
Production Version 14.18.0.4421 Release Notes

The driver for the i865G series contains one additional VidBIOS; the one for the i865G series {DriverVer=08/24/2005, 6.14.10.4384}.  The VidBIOS for the i852/i855 series appear the same as the one in the driver for the i852/i855 series above.
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/9353/a0 … xp1416.zip  The Embedded driver for the i915GME series {DriverVer=01/13/2007, 6.14.10.4764} has newer VidBIOS's for the i910-i945 series chipsets and adds a VidBIOS for the i96x series.  http://downloadmirror.intel.com/15219/e … _25_50.zip  Naturally, the VidBIOS's aren't interchangeable, and driver interchangeability is rather limited.

More VidBIOS's, including i945, i965 & g35 series exist in the first Vista driver for the i945 series chipsets.  http://downloadmirror.intel.com/14430/e … ta_156.zip  http://downloadmirror.intel.com/14429/e … 64_156.zip

There's also an Embedded driver and VidBIOS available for most of this hardware {DriverVer = 06/04/2006,5.1.0.838}, although it is decidedly non-WHQL, and most likely a non-starter .  Definitely, only use at your own risk!  Release Notes:  http://downloadmirror.intel.com/9870/en … in_5_1.txt  VidBIOS Release Notes:  http://downloadmirror.intel.com/9867/en … OS_5_1.txt

This may or may not be relevant:  http://downloadmirror.intel.com/9071/en … LVBIOS.txt

EDIT:  That's hilarious, the image is that of a desktop, again.

intel has no driver listed for "Mobile Intel® 910GML Express Chipset", "Mobile Intel® 915 Express Chipset Family " & the "Mobile Intel® 945 Express Chipset Family ", except what appears to be the same linux driver as the i852/i855 series (includes support for i865G).
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_ … p;lang=eng
That aforementioned Developer driver contains all four Video BIOS's.

Another thought occurs, perhaps all of this legwork has been done before, and an older DP_Graphics pack might work swimmingly.
Stuff happens.

Last edited by TechDud (2012-05-30 14:51:51)

Forum Rules & Guidelines   HWID's tool   Unknown Devices (Win7-max) LatencyMon - NT6.x
MemTest86+    Video Memory Stress Test    D-P-C Driver Latency Tester (Win7-max)

No.  You are out of luck on that old system.
http://www.intel.com/support/graphics/sb/CS-030907.htm

Read BEFORE you post.  HWID tool   DriverPacks Tutorial   DONATE!

Not all heroes wear capes, some wear Kevlar!

Well, the followup; after the new hdd, and a failed 7 installation; the XP with driverpacks installed without a problem. guess it was due to the corrupt harddrive that I was having problems with missing files.. As for the backlight, I am already committed, and am awaiting the CCFL in the mail. I'll post a followup and let you know how it went.

I gotta run right now, just successfully completed a PCB repair on a WD 500gb sata drive ;-P !!!! Went from a click-click-click to a successful spin-up!!!!

I would probably suspect the Marvel chip due to what I have read and seen... on all of my drives, the thermal insulation foam appears burnt around the chip.. even when the chip is in a different location, furthermore, I see evidence of excessive heat, on one side of the ram chip, and the plates and pins where the PCB connects to the drive housing.

Repair may be a poor choice of words.. Cleaning would be better. however, I had 4 ( a WD5000AAJS, WD7500AAKS, a WD500AAKS, and (not sure model, but same line 1.0TB in size)) that all suffered from the 5-click, then spindown problem
It turned out to be corroded contacts where the PCB connects to the drive housing.

and a PCB replacement is almost pointless, there is either an 8-pin rom(or other flash device) or onboard storage on the marvel chip that stores drive specific data that is used to read/write to the disk... A board swap will fix the bad circuit, but the onboard controller REQUIRES the data from the old chip to access the drive. In order to swap the PCB if that is the problem, you need to either swap the flash/proccessor chip or get a data recovery company to adapt the new rom to your old data...

^ if the PCB even helps... I got lucky with my 4 drives ;-P

after you check the contacts CHECK OUT THIS FORUM!!!! (http://forum.hddguru.com)
In my case (4x different WDxxxxAAxS drives) the PCB had bad contact points to the drive...

I gently cleaned the contact pins and pads with a dry dish sponge(and GENTLY with the tip of my leatherman utility knife), and then cleaned them up more with 99% isopropyl alcohol and q-tips, and made sure it was dry before i reassembled. I was very careful to align and center the mounting tabs, and screw holes before tightening the screws.

BIG PIX!!!!

Last edited by zerohimself (2012-06-09 04:18:15)

Don't know about the jumpers.., haven't had to dig that far into it yet, but I would have left them factory set. as for the diodes, unless you know what they are and can look up the specs, your guess is as good as mine, maybe you can find some schematics somewhere(or ask on that hddguru's forum i mentioned).  But I would leave the foam... It is either to prevent shorts or act as a heat sink or both.. my understanding is that those chips get WWWAAAYYY too hot, and that is usually what causes the problems with corrosion or the chip failing, from what I read, when the PCB board is at fault, it is usually due to that chip failing.. if you have some liquid noclean flux, you could flux everything up and either stick in a oven to reflow, or use a hot air rework station, but that is a whole other thread...(and may not fix anything, and could make things worse!!!)..

go check out that thread, I read a post about someone having trouble, and one of the guys helped him trouble shoot with a youtube video, and they eventually fixed it!!!, I know a little about a lot of stuff, but they know a lot more about HDD behaviors and symptoms  than I do.. I suspect I just got lucky with what my problem was...(well, I wouldn't quit until there was no more options... hehe )

I wish I could claim I was more of a HDD expert, but I'm not..(yet..) But I still hope my couple posts help someone!!

see here http://hddscan.com/doc/HDD_from_inside.html

another article http://forums.seagate.com/t5/Barracuda- … m-p/118908

Hope it helps!!

EDIT:: don't know if this applies to your PCB or not
http://forum.hddguru.com/noise-related- … t7986.html

PLEASE DON'T DO WHAT THIS GUY DID!!!! http://forum.hddguru.com/wd5000aaks-00t … 15491.html

Last edited by zerohimself (2012-06-09 18:05:57)