[SLVD] Not able to setup windows

Are you sure the drive is OK?  Because it's SATA, you can connect it natively to another PC for testing (I prefer SpinRite).
Once you're sure the drive itself is OK, check the BIOS to make sure the SATA ports are not in "legacy" or "IDE" mode but the preferred "AHCI" mode.
PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_27C0&CC_0101
This HWID indicates that you have it in "legacy" mode and no textmode drivers are needed.  Once you change the mode to "AHCI" or "RAID", the HWID should change to PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_27C*&CC_0104 or PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_27C*&CC_0106

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If you decide to attempt to revive that 'bad' drive, here's some recommendations.

Visit the drive manufacturer's site (& the system/mobo OEM's site)  to check for firmware updates for the drive. Make note of whether or not your drive can use 4k sectors (& jumper settings, if applicable).  While you're there check the Warranty remaining.

Ensure that LBA is selected in BIOS.  Bear in mind that many intel chipsets limit drive speed to UDMA5 (UDMA 100) on all PATA ports.  I note that the ICH7 series of SouthBridges all support SATA 3.0GB/s, except for ICH7-M aka 82801GBM, which supports SATA 1.5GB/s (according to WikiPedia)

Use the manufacturer's tools to do a 'quick' check, then for 'zeroing' (backup data 1st - if applicable) & doing an 'advanced scan' of the drive.  If it's a Seagate drive, use SeaTools DOS TextMode; WD, use DLG for DOS; etc.  This may take a couple of hours.  Do these tests (if you concur) utilizing another board with an uneffected chipset if necessary.

Do not run any manufacturer tests with a USB adapter.

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Sherlock Holmes used Deductive Reasoning to solve his mysteries.  Similar approaches to electronic hardware yield increasing success rates.

  One place to start may be the CMOS battery.  I use a small WiFi-finder that uses a CR2032 & has a low-battery warning.  It draws a fair bit of current for that style of battery, so weak cells (they can still measure 3 Volts) are easily eliminated.  This is advantageous with even new cells to eliminate 'duds'.  Weak CMOS batteries can yield unpredictable results.  Do not 'flash' anything with such a backup battery unless it is known to pass such a test.  After installing a good battery, short the 'ClearCMOS' jumper for 15 seconds with the P/S unplugged & drained, then remove it.

  Leave the drive disconnected for now.  Ensure that you are using a known-good Power Supply (inspect for blown caps if unsure - power disconnected & drained - ask if unsure - if it's light as a feather, chuck it!).
  Clock everything stock by loading the optimized defaults.  Do this immediately after flashing (if you do so - @ your own risk), too.  Run a 'memtest' on it until it passes (link in my sig.).
  If you have a non-contact IR thermometer (if not, aim to; BIOS rarely tells the whole truth!), 'scan' the board (above & below if possible without blowing yourself up) for hotspots.  Take measurements about 1-4 cm from the target if possible.  When you find them (usually MOSFETs/chipsets/CPU in order of hottest to coolest) make note of any nearby capacitors (within that 'thermal-zone') & their apparent condition.  Mark them for future reference.  http://badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=5

  Speaking of BIOS, are you using the latest 'Beta'?  http://www.gigabyte.com/products/produc … =2669#bios
  http://www.gigabyte.com/webpage/20/HowT … hBIOS.html  I loathe WinFlashers.  I flash in SafeMode-DOS wherever possible using a small HDD in an enclosure.  Your results may vary.
(remember to load defaults & pass memtest before proceeding)

  OK, now that you've solved any cooling issues (i hate the way stock coolers 'warp' a board over time with no backing plate) & are confidant in the system health, it is time to proceed with the HDD.
  I note that the manual states that <Ctrl><F1> enables advanced options within the BIOS.  Ensure that SMART is enabled.  Stick with Auto for your drives (avoid Non-combined mode - your PATA optical device will disappear as it disables PATA - what a PITA!).

  Consider the possibility that your optical device/disc are a source of error.  (Dirty discs - done dirt cheap!)

  Now power down & get the manufacturer's tools for the drive.  Check the manufacturer's site for any speed-limiting jumper settings (shouldn't be necessary).  Backup any important data if necessary.  Use the manufacturer's tools (<F12> for Boot Menu or change Boot Order in BIOS) to zero the drive & run an advanced test (on another system if necessary).
  If this drive still won't install properly (give the machine an extra fifteen minutes if the drive light remains lit during format), try another SATA drive or use GParted from a linux-live disc for confirmation (time to check warranty remaining on drive?).

  I hope at least some of this helps, and that none of it hurts!

Last edited by TechDud (2012-03-25 07:37:26)

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It's not DriverPacks policy to assist with non-DriverPack related issues (time is so precious), but i thought 'what the h*ll'!

One thing i neglected to mention (since i figure that it should 'go without saying'), is electronic cleanliness.  I use an air compressor setup @ about 80psi at a 10cm(4in) distance.  (Safety is critical & your own responsibility - fans can be driven to amputate a digit)  A soft-bristle nylon brush is effective at removing most residue.  It's amazing what glitches this detritus can cause due to stray-capacitance/electric-fields, high-impedance intermittents, and metal plague (including primarily Zinc & Tin).

Why not try to move it to another SATA port?  You do risk the time and effort to obtain success in the first place, though.

They don't always update the 'eye-candy' on a 'beta' BIOS.

Any luck obtaining a non-contact IR thermometer?  Even the 'cheap' models generally yield eye-opening results.  (esp. how biased BIOS can be)

Last edited by TechDud (2012-03-27 10:55:28)

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80 PSI is ~5.5 bar!
I'd be careful not to rip a MOSFET, capacitor or some other component off the board...

I use about 3 bar (~44 PSI) to clean out dirt in the car's engine and such - that's mostly sufficient for the task.

Plus, not to forget that compressed air - thanks to the ~21 % of oxygen contained - can built up electrostatic quite easily, which could fry the more sensitive of your components.
Better use compressed nitrogen if you can (no diradical moluecule such as O2, hence no statics build-up).

Anyway, for PC case cleaning, I mostly use a vaccuum cleaner with great results. No damaged components so far
It won't get off the dust-nicotine mixture, though, if you're a smoker (bad for your health and that of your PC!)...

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I've seen SATA cables that looked otherwise fine go bad.  I just ordered a stack of new SATA cables from monoprice.com for about $0.60 each.  I always try to keep a stash of spare cables, just in case.

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